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Why Buddy Check With Your Dive Partner
Let’s take a closer look at a buddy check…
First of all, why check with friends? Answer… For your peace of mind. You may have dived with this particular buddy hundreds of times, with the same kit and setup or this may be your first time diving together, either way I would advise you to perform the same control. The buddy you’ve dived with hundreds of times before may have forgotten something on that occasion. The buddy you have never dived with before may not be setting up their kit correctly or may have a kit you are unfamiliar with i.e. weight system or BCD inflation system, you need to know how this kit is used or dropped in an emergency.
If you are PADI trained, you have learned the “BWRAF” check or if you are “BSAC trained, you have learned the “BARE” check or some variation thereof, both methods cover the same checks but in an order different and aim to satisfy the same criteria… So let’s do a “Buddy Check”.
B stands for “BUOYANCY”. You check your buddies buoyancy device, how inflated is it? Inflate it, just a little, how is it deflated? deflate it. Where are rapid air dumps located and how do they work? Are there any obvious leaks that could cause a problem later in the dive.
W in the PADI check means weight, this comes under E for extras in the BSAC checks. Checking out your friends weight system, are they using a belt or built-in weights? If it is a belt, is the belt tight (if it is slightly loose, it could cause a problem in slipping when they hit the water or when they go down and their wet suit / wetsuit waterproof compresses). Is the loop closed properly? i.e. no strap is trapped in the closure, preventing the buckle from fully closing (I’ve seen this so many times on dive boats, the free end of the belt hangs at an angle when the buckle is closed and gets caught in the lower part of the buckle allowing the buckle to open when the diver hits the water, resulting in a lost weight belt on the surface or worse when the diver is 30 meters away ). Is it well lit? That is, the release of the left hand. Is the loop easily accessible? It must not be obstructed by the cumberband BCD for example. For built-in weight systems, check that they are fully secured by the attachment devices they have, i.e. clips, straps, Velcro, etc. Make sure you know how to release them in an emergency. (I personally hate built-in weight systems, no matter what method you use to secure them, it never feels very safe or foolproof to me).
R for versions. Check all the versions on your friend’s buoyancy device, how many versions are there? Where are they located? Are they all secure? How to undo them in an emergency?
A for air. I start with the tank band, is it tight? is the clip closed correctly, an important thing about this is to ensure that the free end of the strap is passed through the 3rd slot on the buckle, this ensures that the buckle cannot be knocked over and come undone, so many experienced divers don’t lock their tank straps in this way, I’ve seen several incidents where a diver’s tank came loose mid-dive, upon close inspection the tank strap didn’t has not been fixed and locked in this way. Is the band wet? If the tank band was cylinder-tight when dry, it will feel tight, but as soon as it enters the water and gets wet, the strap expands, resulting in a loose tank band.
Next, make sure the air is on, check the SPG to make sure there is enough air in the cylinder for your planned dive. Then check the second stages, you should both take a few breaths simultaneously, your buddy from the main 2nd stage, you from the alternate 2nd stage, take 3 or 4 deep clean breaths together while watching the SPG, if he there is flickering or movement of the SPG needle a problem with the listed regs and they should not be used until the problem has been found and corrected, it is usually something as simple as fully open the air.
F is for “final” as E is for “extras”, check that everything is secure in place and streamlined, nothing is hanging down that could snag and trap the diver or drag along the bottom causing damage to the piece of equipment or marine life. The fins and the mask are ready to put on and the straps are in good condition.
This may seem long and tedious, but in practice it only takes 2-4 minutes at most, time well spent if you find a problem or the potential cause of a problem and fix it before it happens. produce.
You are now ready to enter the water but just one more check once you are in the water, drop down to 3-6 meters and just watch yourself for any unwanted bubbles coming from pipes, connections, inflators, etc.
Enjoy your dive being as sure as possible that neither of you will suffer unexpected equipment problems during your dive.
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